The waves are very important in surfing. But not all waves are equal because there are oceans that produce the biggest wave because of the wind, the current circulating and the place around and beneath the ocean.
The thing that plays the bigger part is the underwater terrain that leads up to the beach because it shows what sort of waves will roll into the shore. There are open shorelines that is shallow where they don’t do much in shaping waves energy that’s coming. That’s why waves roll over one at a time that produces a calmer water surface. For example, you can think of beach where even if you put your feet the waves remain gentle.
One of the biggest waves surfed that ever recorder was the behemoth in Nazaré Portugal topping out 80 ft (24 meters) where the famous Brazilian surfer named Rodrigo Koxa rode last November 2017.
But in the Nazeré situation, there are shorelines that produce extreme waves because they might have a sea bottom that’s steeper, which causes the waves to go higher as it goes towards the beach. In this situation, the wavefront start was pulled down by the second wave, that’s why they are slowing down that makes the second wave to rise up higher. Decreasing in the distance causes the wave’s rows to decrease but the energy of the waves gets condensed tendency for the wave to become taller.
In the Nazeré, Portugal situation, it was declared to be the biggest wave ever surfed by the World’s Surf League 2018 in their Big Wave Awards. With an 80 feet tall wave, it beat the record previously made by Garrette McNamara riding on a 78 feet tall wave in 2011 at the same place, Nazaré in Portugal. This made Koxa have the biggest wave of the year prize during that event.
Moreover, because of what he achieved, he became a part of the biggest world of record for riding in an 80 feet tall wave in Portugal at the end of November 2017.During Koxa’s surfing on that biggest wave, he was so small compared to the wave that is looking with the naked eye he is unfindable.
Koxa had a video that circulated on Twitter about his jaw-dropping performance and the unbelievable scenes. There’s a vertical white line of waves that goes up and down and up higher that makes the tower and the people watching around to look dwarf. And another wave that breaks toward the shores as it finally rolls over then you could figure the man playing with the deadly wave, Koxa and doing it all while looking calm through his face as he rides down
On the same day, there are also other winners named Aaron Gold, Ivan Walsh, Paige Alms, Lucas Chianca. Sadly, one surfer named Andrew Cotton, who after competing on the same place and same day Koxa did its record-breaking performance, had broken his back after a bad fall. He was awarded and had an award of Wipeout of the Year.
But before Koxa a surfer has a previously great record on Narené, this was set by a surfer named Garrett McNamara from Hawaii in 2011 he rode off the same coast with a 78-foot-tall wave. Some surfers claimed to break that record of McNamara but the only confirmed one is from Koza’s wave. Meanwhile, the wave is measured by experts from trough to crest by comparing it with surfer’s size.
The Narené, in Portugal, produces bigger and larger waves because of a mix of the fierce wind, Ocean current that is strong and the largest submarine canyon located in Europe. The waves from the Canyon are proved to be dangerous because on several occasions, there are many surfers got injured or even nearly killed and according to the report, they have spotted offshore 100 feet waves. There are waves called Wicked Waves and one of these is the waves of Praia do Norte and it is also famous for being the World’s largest wave.
This beach is also located on the European coast. Due to this location, it catches winds easily, and the storms that sweep across the North Atlantic allow the ocean to swells. Also, there’s a deep canyon that points toward the town as it runs under the surf, so oceans swell directly toward at the edge of Nazaré and the lighthouse. The Canyon is 130 miles long and 16,000 feet deep below the ocean surface. The submarine canyon is the reason for the ocean swells that makes it have more energy. That’s why it produces largely dangerous waves that fear the people living in the town whenever someone would like to surf on it because it possibly causes their death.
The canyon located under the sea in Portugal only shows that not all nature’s wonder is easily visible. Having half the of Grand Canyon but also possess three times deeper than it, affects the ocean’s turbulence making it monumental, meaning the swelling from the offshore will roll over the submarine canyon thus squeezes and speed the swell because of the cliffs that line the narrowing the tunnel and the shore lift the shallow ledge creating a monstrous wave.
The town’s name- Nazaré was named after Nazareth to symbolize as the place of death because throughout its history, its wave has killed many people. Also, of its ability to create a wave topping of 100 feet especially in winter and perhaps, and this may be the world’s biggest, thickest, highest wave with a height of nine-story building.
For history, before the Nazaré wave began to start, there were many Fishermen that sail in the town and known to a fishing port for 400 years. But after those voyages, many Fishermen have encountered the waves and because of this, this town becomes a town of widows for centuries and women are dressed in a black dress. The fishing industry declined in the town because of deaths and danger from the ocean and this town in Portuguese has become one of the many poor town.
But because of the success of Hawaii’s expert surfer named Garette McNamara who had ridden on the World’s bigger wave, those in Alaska, Tahiti,Japan and those waves that rise up to 80 feet to 100 feet in San Diego. Dino Casimiro had an Idea that maybe Garette McNamara can be interested in visiting Nazaré and might dare to try and ride on it because if he did not die, the town of Nazaré can find its way to rise up its industry from a failed fishing town, find itself on the map and boost its tourism industry, have a prosperity to regain the people and the towns moral.
Garette took the chance to ride on the biggest wave but before that he first study about the Nazaré’s waves. He plans to train and reflects on it which took him a year. Before his first move, the challenges are what he used to the subject of his research. He also studied the different waves of Nazaré, he said that the waves in Nazaré are never the same wave because some waves are taller, some are round, and some are hollow and he also began to differentiate them.
In November 2011, the town of Nazaré was full of joy as Garette didn’t die on his first ride on the wave and luckily got his world record and it became like the biggest wave that ever surfed proved with a measurement of 78 feet. He definitely conquered the wave.
In November 2012, just a year passed the famous Garette continued training in Hawaii and got a lot of sponsors and one of them is the Mercedez-Benz who created an ultimate big wave board just and specialized for him. After a lot of training, he went back to Nazaré to take its big break with a speed estimated between 60 to 70 miles per hour. He was riding with a moving mountain that measures 100 feet. The wave was considered as the World’s surf League’s XXL Biggest Wave and even got an award. This is an inspirational story of a 44-year-old man, 5’10-foot-tall and weighs 170 pounds.
However, women’s category in surfing has its own biggest wave ever surfed, and like with Koxa and McNamara, it also happened at Nazaré back in January 2018, and this record is held by Maya Gabeira- a Brazilian surfer who rode on 68 feet wave.
We can conclude that there are many seas, oceans, and beaches that produce the biggest, tallest, and largest waves that you can catch if you want a thrill in surfing, but Nazaré is on top of that. Moreover, there are some surfing spots that are popular for its bigger waves such as Teahupo’o located in Tahiti, the Cortes bank that can be found in Los Angeles, the Oahu’s Banzai Pipeline and the Mavericks in Northern California. The uniqueness of this is because of the undersea geography. You can say that even though the people of the town feel like they are cursed and Nazaré was cursed for having those big waves that killed many people. This may also be a beautiful disaster because this is also the reason why the people gain back its hope and moral. Not all sad things are bad things, and if you just learn how to look at the beauty of it, you will learn to appreciate it and use it for the common good just like what Dino did for the town. The fear turned into the hope that one day the town’s industry will gain back its power not by fishing but by tourist attraction. Thus, every surfer has its own story before it made to top just like how beaches, oceans and seas have its own history before it was hailed as an amazing and one of a kind attraction to many.